Dear Diary,
We are greeted with a bright warmish day, prairie birds singing, pheasants calling. Left after breakfast at 8AM. Note to self: We have brought Pete the Travel Gnome with us as good luck wanderer's charm and we put him in the picture from time to time.
We head out into the weather again. Have we mentioned The Wind? The prairie wind is picking up, wonder what is happening in the Canadian Prairies to the north. There are abandoned farms with very modest houses falling down from time to time. Reminded that real prairie houses were first made of sod. The'farms' are widely spread, isolated. We are steadily climbing and the land is hillier. Can see how millions of buffalo/bison once roamed over these huge expanses. There are signs of flooding with hay bales sitting in lakes. There is beef cattle, corn and wheat (winter); and it's obvious the soil is much more fragile and less deep than eastern areas, they are more agressive here using various cultivation methods. The soil blows east to Ohio so that's okay with us. All rivers, full, are still flowing to the Mississippi and will do so until far western South Dakota. Some big rigs are still carrying snow chains. This I90 has snow gates on ramps and lots of drift fencing. It's very refreshing to see simple friendly signs advertising Wall Drug (all through the state) and various family attractions and Christ Died for You!. There are no alcohol or cigarette signs and no Adult Store signs like in the other states. However, there is gambling! Dances With Wolves movie was shot in this area. We are in the Great Plains, home of the G P Indians, one large tribe are the Ogalala Sioux. We are clear now but hazy on the horizon. Besides the Grasslands this is also home to some spectacular large prehistoric fossil remains and petrified wood. We're in a fully contained 25 foot RV but are reminded of early settlers in their Praire Schooners (sp?) not so self contained. We have 75 mph limit and see rare troopers. Chuck is fighting with the steering wheel again. Did we mention the ever present wind. Around Murdo a crop duster flies beside us, literally 10 feet off the ground nearly looking us in the eye. We have passed into Mountain Time, so in travel terms we have gained an hour, in aging body terms doesn't matter. We begin to see antelope aka pronghorn besides deer. Many of their side roads are dirt and stone. Highway is narrow but in good condition rare bridge construction and new road.
These isolated huge farms are now called ranches. There are no milk cows here. These beef cattle must be ornery and tough. They are obviously high flyers even the interstate has cattle grates in the ramps to keep them from wandering on. Most land is fenced but the signs say not always controlled. Trees are becoming rarer and we are moving backwards in spring time. The wind is exhasuting for Chuck as he tries to hold the RV on the road. This big box has little aerodynamic qualities. Seeing some very different bird migrations, even thought we saw white pelicans yesterday. (that was without cocktails). We are near Custer Park and Wounded Knee. The clash at Wounded Knee, a not so great moment in our history. We finally make it to Wall, SD. home of Wall Drug. We see the first cowboy boots on a local. We came here in 1984 with Grandmas and kids. It's a funky western town and Wall Drug is historic and touristy. We bought Brenna and Seth Prairie Dog banks at that time. Brenna fell in love with the little furry ratlike creature. Bren couldn't say Prairie Dog so called it Frairie Dog. The G's thought it was all so cute. Every morning after that Brenna greeted the G's by shaking her 'Frairie' Dog bank and they were obliged to contribute to her college fund. Not sure how cute they thought it was by the time we reached Alaska. Seth the quiet but observant baby watched his sister in action and wished he could do it too. Not impressed by Wall Drug these days, it's beyond commercial. Appears that one large enterprise has bought up all the small businesses and kept the names. And no prairie dog banks to be found, alas, haven't seen a prairie dog. I fear the prairie dog is not very popular around here. We would give Wall Drug a miss in any future trips across. But we did stop in the Grasslands National Park exhibit and found it very interesting. Note to self: we gave Badlands a miss this time but would forego all other activities on this day and would go there next time) Drving into The Wind, 30 miles outside Rapid City a mountain range begins to appear Big Horn Mountains we think. At this point we are in the High Plains (think Clint Eastwood, High Plains Drifter). Took truck route around Rapid City, most of it sits along the sides of the Black Hills. This area is where gold was discovered and they still produce some and gold jewelry. Lots of minerals and vaious kinds of rock and gems were. The gold comes yellow. green and pink. We see our first tumbleweed blowing across the road. Blowing? More like flying. We are in funnel areas and the gusts that come through try to lift the RV off the road. It's all Chuck, can do to hold it down. Wind is part of their lives here but even the locals say this is more than normal. We are climbing into the Black Hills (spectacular granite and pine)vto revisit Mr. Rushmore. There are a series of tunnels and we pass through one. Very short and very neat, truly carved out of rock. Reach Mt. Rushmore. Reminded North by Northwest, Cary Grant, was filmed here. It was $11.00 to park but that is good for all year as many times as you want to come. Clearly advantageous for locals and stayovers. We took a time out to prepare and eat lunch in the RV. As we munched a mountain goat walked across the road munching his own lunch. Chuck was able to get out and get within 20 feet for a picture. MG's are usually allusive but this one was greeter. Obviously no predators here. Can't believe the changes here. The 2 G's and kids in tow had to walk a lengthy forest trail from a broad asphalt lot to see the 4 presidents carved in granite. Now it's multi level parking lot with a grand granite staircase. We enter a sort of granite gate onto a plaza with cafe and gift store and info/book store. A corridor of 25 foot granite pillars line the walk with the flags of each state on display and the date of each state's inception into the union carved on the four sides of the pillars. All this framing the 4 presidents high on the mountain, Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln. There is a huge plaza and below is a gorgeous open air amphitheater. At night there is lighting and ranger talks take place here. These black hills are covered in Ponderosa Pine, making the hills appear black. Unique to this area elevation. We can see the plains spreading out below us. On to Crazy Horse mountain sculpture. Since our visit 27 years ago this has changed greatly. Not only have they made great progress on the sculpture, the visitor's center and native culture museum is incredible. It was $10.00 for each of us to get on the grounds. Gift shop and cafe are also there. Good to read up on the sculptor, the Native tribes who commissioned it and the symblism and future plans. Moving on, passed Dead Broke St, reminding us of the gold mining or maybe the renewed gambling. Went through Hill City (little berg), home of the HC Film Festival, now that's intriquing. The road signs flash, Big Horn Sheep on the road, alas we didn't see or hit any. Passed through Deadwood (think Earp, Hickok and Ian McShane of HBO). Located in a very narrow canyon, on the historic registry. Neat old building, houses clinging to the sides of the canyon. In order to bring money in for restoration gambling was restored to this old gambling town. We didn't stop but would do in future. Apparently you can't get to a restaurant or shop without passing through gambling. This would have been an ideal spot, the only detraction was the lose of pine on the hills. We saw this throughout. Apparently the hated pine bettle had done its worse. A lot of thinning was taking place and taking out 'deadwood'. Back onto I90 passing into Wyoming, red rock soil and The Wind. We can see large snow covered peaks, we are nearing Big Horn Mountains (highest around 13k). We take a quick via Rt 16 north and go to within viewing distance of Devil's tower. We don't drive all the way in, short 5 miles because we get a good view but would go to the site in future. It's an unbelieveable rock formation (remember Close Encouter of the Third Kind with Richard Dreyfuss.) We come to the town of Buffalo and stay the night at Indian Campground on edge of town. Nice pull through, no leveling. We are at the base of the mountains and decide to walk into town for a stretch. Beautiful little town, the sidewalks roll up early. This is the county seat and the health ($) of this town is partly due to luring retirees to come here. There is an historic hotel called the Occidental. We decide to quench our thirst before the long walk back. Its is a living museum from bygone days. Wild Bill Hickok could come strolling in, after he wiped his boots. The bar, restaurant, tea room and lobby are all antiques. Have decided that Visitor's Center is good but bartenders who wear Stetsons at local watering holes are good too for info too. Met a couple from Black Hills who motor cycle their way around the US. They invited us up to their room to see what they are like. Chuck went back to the bar and Pat was on her own. Lovely people who gave more inside info on the area. They are traveling our way early fall, I invited them to look us up. We are still on the same I90 that takes us to home and family back east. The fact that we are in Buffao along I90 is not missed by us. It's been a big day. Good night.
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