Day 6 Yellowstone Adventures

Day 6

Dear Diary,

Awoke to sunshine after a very cold night.   We are staying here for 4 days but this is a huge park so we leave everyday.  Around 55 degrees and little breeze.  Left Fishing Creek campground around 9AM, crossed the bridge over the Yellowstone River.   It is a beautiful clear fairly wide river with snowy banks, we are at the mouth and can see it flowing into the Yellowstone Lake.  Mt Moran in the distance to the south.  We follow the river through the Hayden Valley, more evidence of the 1988 fire, the area has reseeded itself and the trees are about 12 or more feet.  There are steam vents all along the river.  We stop at Mud Volcanic Field.  Bubbling caldrons of scalding hot water, sulfur smell is prevalent, the water is the acidity of battery acid.  We see our first bison up close.  They like hanging around the springs/geysers, it’s warm, there are minerals and some plants grow, good for the winter.  Hoof prints are close to geysers.  A bison calf sits near its mother.  Across the hillside a sign points out that the bulging of the one hill is actually lava pushing up and out, raising the land (trees intact, no noticeable).  The bison are oblivious.  The Hayden River Valley opens up and there are bison all along looking gaunt.  They are eating as fast as they can, bears and wolves are on the prowl.  There are some advantages to coming to Yellowstone in the spring.  Yes, there’s snow, no wildflowers and cool – cold, and there can be a snow storm at any time.  But, the summer gets so packed that cars are bumper to bumper and we can only imagine the variety of behaviors that take place with the humans.  Springtime the animals are very active and visible, summer more will move to higher elevations.  The H. Valley is a wide expanse with the river running through, signs of beaver, see Sandhill cranes and a blue heron.  Still snow covered.  Lots of different kinds of wild ducks.  We cross the Continental Divide frequently while in the park, does interesting things to the water flow.  We come upon the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone Park.  Very impressive deep tight gorge with various rock formations and rock types.  We stop at the lower falls which is the highest at 306 ft.  There are some nice viewing points and if you are more daring and in good shape there are long stairways leading up and down the gorge.  The water is at high point and the falls roar.  We drive on to Canyon Village.  One of the park areas with full services.  Gas, Lodge and campground closed, cafes, gift shops, visitor center etc.  We drive through but don’t stop.  Not a particularly interesting place but visitor center would be worth it in future but there are other things to do today.  We meet up with some of the RV’s who left in the first departure, 2 days before us.  They are just getting here, so we obviously are traveling a lot.  Alaska Adventures are getting these units to Alaska in time for the Ak high season, hence the early May trip.  But, it can’t be any earlier or these drivers would be facing late winter weather and many have little or no experience driving these vehicles.  Ever heading north we pass through high clear swollen streams.  Signs of beaver handiwork are everywhere.  The stream runs all over the place and small lakes form.  Steam vents are frequent along the way.  The road has more potholes, heave and is narrow, less snow on the ground.  There is a 20 year road improvement project going on, they haven’t gotten here yet.  Weather is moving in, we see a few snow flakes.  We come to a 6% grade into a narrow high gorge with narrow switchbacks, no guard rails, we are on the outside.  A beautiful canyon with a raging waterfall at the top.  We pass through an area where huge boulders have fallen from the face of a rim far above us.  It looks like some kind of giant’s rock garden.  All gray granite, pretty neat.  On a left we spot a black bear about 30 feet from the road.  Beautiful coat, no cub so probably male, and very large.  He was on the move and ignored us.  The gorge takes us into a small beautiful valley surrounded by mountains and hills.  Here is Mammoth Hot Springs, it takes up a whole hillside with various amount of activity.  There are wooden staircases that take hikers up and down and around.  The active areas are very beautiful bubbling fountains of shapes and colors.  A bird takes a bath in one of the pools, it must be cool enough because it doesn’t boil.  There is a distinctive landmark called Liberty Cap, a dormant geyser cone.  The sun’s out and it’s warm!  Yeah!  The village is beautiful.  It is the park headquarters and the old buildings are still prevalent.  They are distinctive architecture, stone, slanted tile roofs, very WPA looking.  We go to visitors center and get some directions and info.  The post office has two concrete bears greeting us.  Love the engineers building.  A small park lies in front of the Visitors center and in it are a small herd of bison.  They are just lounging.  We are within 20 feet.  The ranger yells at the guy who decides the orange cones are just a suggestion.  So he walks within 10 feet for his picture.  Thinking the summer must be really fun for the rangers.  Elk are bedded down too on the grounds.  This is a wintering area haven’t moved up into the hills yet.  The Mammoth Springs Hotel is painted a creamy yellow.  It’s art nouveau meets WPA.  We walk around the inside, a fire is burning.  Beautiful large conference room with 180 degree views of mountains and springs.  Early visitors came for the hot springs as treatment.  Early indigenous people and buffalo knew about it long before.  We reluctantly leave and retrace our route.  Good views of the valley and geysers up the hill.  Two male bison walk within 10 feet of our RV, it’s obvious they are struggling more than the ones in the valley.  The park will not intervene, I really wonder if the one will make it.  Some time up the road we see cars parked all along the road.  There is only one thing that makes this draw and yes, our first grizzly sighting.  A lone griz eating roots or grasses about 50 feet away.  No sign of cubs so assume male.  There are about 100 people lining the road with cameras, rangers on site.  That bear is well aware he is being watched but they are so hungry they eat without interruption.  More melt, the sun and warmth are speeding things to full spring.  We come to Roaring Mountain, where geysers erupt from the hillside.  Geysers erupt anywhere, anytime, that is how ‘hot’ this area is.  We are essentially in a super volcano throughout the park.  We are starting on a stretch of the new road project.  It’s so nice and the stonework, pull offs, walkways are incredible.  When this is done throughout the park it will be fantastic.  We come to the Norris Geyser Basin.  Just when you think there is nothing more that can surprise, this area is hundreds of acres of activity.  Steamboat Geyser is here, it spits 15 feet in the air but once a year it fountains hundreds of feet in the air and it’s ‘pattern’ shows that it lasts 4 days.  All kinds of geysers and springs are happening in this area.  Wooden walkways take hikers throughout.  We only walk part and will come back in a couple days.  There is sign of bison everywhere.  The roadways are not very crowded, a few bus tours, no kids.  On the road to Old Faithful for dinner, more wide valleys, always bison, closed roads to some geysers due to snow.  Stop at Biscuit Basin where the Sapphire Pool and many other very volatile small geysers are active.   An earthquake of 7.8 in the area shifted the tube leading to the pool, it created a huge water eruption and through ‘biscuits’ of mineral rocks around the area.  More bison, they poop everywhere.  Arrive at Old Faithful Inn for 7PM dinner reservation at the lodge.  This is oldest national park lodge in nation.  Have to see it to believe it.  A wood log structure with ceiling of 100 feet in the lobby.  Lots of rocking chairs, massive fireplace in the center reaching for the ceiling.  The logs used to decorate as trellises are odd natural shapes and the ceiling and support pillars are massive trees.  The restaurant was all log with massive fireplace and huge camp light chandeliers hanging from huge chains.  We had a wonderful dinner.  Main course, pork osso bucco and strip steak.  This area is so massive there were at least 200 people dining at the same time.  Lots of servers so it was personal.  Everything rustic and made of wood.  Didn’t stay for Old Faithful eruption, about every 90 minutes, will go back before we leave.  Headed back to Fishing Bridge.  Coyote runs in front, safely to the other side of the road.  Beautiful sunset, the mountains are pink.  The light is fading, have to watch for black ice from the day melt and cooling night.  Arrive at camp as the last light fades.  Back in, level the wheels, time for bed!

PS Drove 142 miles in the park.  The place is huge and have to double back at times.  Good Night!