Day 42 Home at last, 6 weeks on the road

Dear Diary, 
 We have a hard landing in Cleveland at 5:50AM.  This flight must have had a west wind behind it because we reduced our arrival time by almost a half hour.  Our luggage is already waiting for us and off the belt.  So nice!  Continental Airmiles:  2021.  Seth picks us up.  Our area is in for a storm.  We are greeted by full summer foliage, low pink sunrise mists are clinging to the Valley trees.  It's muggy and in the 80's but it will cool into 70's by tomorrow for a while.  We have seen some beautiful things all along the way.  But we are still impressed with the quiet beauty of our own home area.  We take Seth to breakfast before he has to return to work.  Our home is in good shape.  Minimal has been done to the lawn, so planting and trimming to come soon.  Chuck goes to the post office for 6 weeks of mail and Pat goes to bed.  The time change is one thing but our own bed feels so good and sleep comes quick.  It's interesting to see home after so long and find how pleasant it is.
We're glad we kept the blog.  And it's been fun to think that friends have opted to check it out once in a while and share our experience.  We have seen and done so much in 6 weeks time that having the detailed blog will help us remember.  We met so many people along the way and visited with friends and our daughter.   So much storytelling and sharing, it adds to the whole rich experience.  In this time we stayed in Chicago Marriott, RV in many campgrounds, Anchorage Marriot, Brenna's apartment, Anchorage, Marshall's Cabin Girdwood, Alaska, Alaska Marine Ferry torture beds, Olympia, Washington with Al and Betty.  That's a lot of packing, unpacking, beds/living space.  This trip has been everything we hoped and more.  We thought we had come to an age where surprise and delight have become less.  But it's not true.  We have surprised ourselves with our flexibility and physical stamina.  Just when we think we're too old for this we did it without illness or injury.  Can't say there haven't been aches, pains and stiffness, but we overcame them pretty easily.  So guess there's still a bit more of the rowdy life left in us.  This trip is done, now we must transition back to our life.  We could never duplicate this exact trip.  There were many little miracles along the way that made it unique.  We are different people for having the experience.  We believe that is what travel does, it changes perspective and opens the mind to possibilities.  We celebrate the gifts of our Creator, the earth with all it's natural beauty, animals, friendships and relationships.  We are grateful for health and the ability to fully participate in all of life's greatness.  Adding road, sea and air miles = 10,000 miles more or less.  We are home.

Day 41 Going home, fond farewell

Dear Diary,
Awake to overcast morning.  We have breakfast and start to pack our gear and suitcases.  Thankfully we are flying first class and hope they will not charge extra which is their method, but first class never gets charged.  Betty and Pat go to the grocery store.  It's fun to see all the local and different grocery items carried here.  This is a very nice market with lots of choices.  Al and Chuck have gone to get gas at Costco at $3.73/gallon.  This is probably similar to back home by this time.  Better than Alaska at more than $4.00 per gallon. We make some preparations for our leaving and preparing for Brenda, Alejandro and Gaby's visit from Florida.  They land just as our plane departs.  We miss seeing them by only an hour or so.  It would be fun to get to see them even for a hi.  This is a very special visit for 2 weeks at Grandma and Grandpa's house.  Lots of fun ahead.  Al and Betty will have had visitors for 4 weeks.  Rosenberger's from Alaska just left, we were here near 5 days and then their family.  Lots of good times for them.  We don't depart until nearly 11PM and anticipate a quiet restful flight.  We will gain 3 hours, landing 3AM Seattle time, 6AM Cleveland time (about a 3 1/2 hour flight).  Seth is coming to pick us up before he goes to work.  He only lives about 15 minutes away.  He has helped us out a lot by keeping watch over the house and taking care of some things in our absence.  Apparently we have had an unusual summer with hot and very cool spells and rain.  Very different from our heat, humidity and drought from last summer.   We're taking it easy the rest of the day.  We're glad we splurged for first class for our return home, it will be worth it.  Maybe some sleep?  Brenda's plane will be four hours late so Al and Betty will pick them up in the middle of the night. The day is in sun and light cloud, a nice farewell for us.  We get to the airport in good time, get tickets, go through security (Pat forgets and packs some liquids, the TSA are very nice), stroll through a store, stop at the Club for 15 minutes, walk out and board.  All done in less than an hour.  Very pleasant experience.  Our first class seats are not great for comfort but when we see the large number of people walking back to coach we really don't think we could have done it tonight.  So happy to be where we are.  We call Brenna one last time knowing she is in the area.  She's had another big day at the lab and heading for Portland to meet a friend for a time out tomorrow.  She's living the good life.  The flight is fairly smooth.  The stewards talk loudly the whole time, Pat will write a complaint.  Rest off and on, the trip is too short to get in a really good sleep.  Twilight sleep....

Day 40 Seattle Bound, Pike Street Market, seeing Brenna one more time

Dear Diary,
we awake to sunshine and 75 degrees which is warmer for this area.   They have had a cool and rainy summer so far.   The neighborhood rooster greets us with his crowing.  They have Roosevelt Elk in the area and we have hoped to see them.  But not so far.  We take our time getting ready for our outing.  The four of us drive into Seattle in heavy traffic but very beautiful with full sun, Mt Rainier is fully out as are the Olympia Mountains.  We park near Pike Street Market downtown Seattle and begin our walk about.  A stop at the crazy fishmongers, the ones who throw fish.  Lots of flowers, fresh fruits and vegetable stalls.  Many handmade craft stalls.  We have a drink break on the top floor of a small cafe for a beautiful harbor view, a container ship docks and the ferries busily cross back and forth.  We stop at the kitchen shops and find some interesting bakeries.  Pick up some Yukon Gold Bread and shortbread, one with Earl Grey tea and one with pistachios and cranberries.  Brenna calls and is on her way from lab early.  The rest of the lab people saw the weather and left so she is able to take advantage.  She meets us at the market and we stop at a native craft shop and see some very different crafts.  The southeast items are different and creative.  We decide to go to dinner early.  We drive over to Anthony's on the shoreline, just west of Pike Street Market and they have free valet parking.  We have been to the Anthony's in Olympia and at SeaTac and have always liked it.  This is Anthony's at Pier 66.  There are many pier restaurants in the area and you can't go wrong with any of them, but this is the one we know we like.  We have to go upstairs and the restaurant is beautiful with a balcony overlooking the harbor.  The sun is setting and very bright, the sky is blue with partial clouds.  It's very warm in the sun.  We get in early and get a table outside.  We see all kinds of boats and ships go by and can see the harbor with its big cranes.  The ferries to Bainbridge and other islands are crossing frequently.  Two big new looking tug boats go by.  Mt Rainier is fully out and can be seen from our seats.   The Olympic Range across Puget Sound is out.  We are facing west Seattle so little houses cover the hillside across from us.  It is a perfect evening of friends, great weather, perfect location and views.  And best of all Brenna is with us for an unexpected extra visit that we did not count on.  We have lots of fresh seafood.  The king salmon in rhubarb with a morel strata is excellent.  Dessert is a chocolate cake with dolce leche ice cream and a big lacy chocolate salmon garnish and a rhubarb slump with ice cream.  We dine for 3 hours and are resistant to leaving but we must.  We say our last goodbye to Brenna and drop her near her hotel at the university labs.  It's hard to say good-by to her again but we are so happy to have this extra surprise visit.  We see a pink sunset on Mt. Rainier as we drive back to Olympia.  It's been a great day full of many memories.  Night!

Day 39 Olympia: golf, lunch, shopping and euchre

Dear Diary,
We awake to a warm but overcast day.  A promise of sun.  After breakfast Al and Chuck go play at Capital City golf course with neighbor Steve.  Chuck has to use a hodge podge of clubs and no shoes but anticipates the game.  Betty and Pat go for lunch in downtown Olympia at the Oyster House on the harbor.  We sit outside and it is sunny.  We have nice views of the capital building on the hill.  Walking around to little shops and a particularly nice artists' coop.  Pat finds Leandra Drumm's pewter work in this shop, LD is artist from Akron, Ohio and works with her Dad Don Drumm.  We all link up on the deck back at the house.  Al has his first golf game since his abdominal surgery and does very well.  Chuck plays a 104, not bad on strange course and strange equipment.  Betty fixes a nice dinner and we play a couple games of euchre.  Betty and Al have caught on fast.  We have contacted Brenna and she is joining us for dinner tomorrow night in Seattle.  She has had a busy day at the lab at University of Washington.  Fun day, good time with friends.  Night.

Day 38 A restful but fun day with Betty and Al

Dear Diary,
We are in Olympia, Washington, the state capital.  Pat sleeps until 10AM. Finally Chuck comes and gets her up.  It is well needed rest.  It's Father's Day and Betty is making breakfast.  We spend leisure time over coffee and visiting.  Both Brenna and Seth call Chuck for Father's Day and we realize that Brenna is coming to Seattle today for work.  We didn't realize our visits were overlapping in the area.  Later in the day we drive out to a Barbecue place in the country, the Ranch House.  It was destroyed by a rare flood 2 years ago.  They they had a fire with the new construction.  It's a cute little place.  Lots of people waiting, Father's Day is a draw, but it's also very popular.  We wait in the bar and enjoy our visit.  We eat dinner outside on the patio.  It's cool and spits a little rain but the umbrella keeps us dry.  We have sampler plates of excellent barbecue that has been smoked and good side dishes.  We 4 share a slice of bourbon pecan pie.  No more room for food.  We have a chance to do some laundry and take it easy.  Then we teach Al and Betty to play euchre and they are patient and good sports.  We find they catch on fast - too fast.  We realize we might be able to see Brenna while she is here.  We arrange to have dinner with her on Tuesday night in Seattle.  She is working in collaboration with University of Washington for a week.  So we are excited to catch up with her.  It's been a fun day with good friends and good food.  More adventures coming.  So time for bed.  Night.

Day 37 Leaving the ferry, meeting friends, bus and train

Dear Diary,
We have lost an hour overnight, now on Pacific time.  So we must be clear about all the times announced for disembarking orders.  We were in Canadian waters until just the last couple hours.  We awake early for showers and last minute packing.  Have a quick breakfast and coffee.  We are passing near the San Juan Islands.  It's raining hard and the fog is thick with some brief views of the islands.  We dock in Bellingham and it is as we remember it.  Lots of little houses on the hillside.  It's a nightmare getting off the ship.  The elevator hasn't worked well and we have avoided it.  The same people keep appearing when the door opens.  They can't seem to go down.  With our luggage we have no choice but to take the elevator. Finally we get down and have to disembark through the car deck.  This has been the path we have had to use for boarding and reboarding.  It's a bit chaotic and can be dangerous with all the cars, trucks etc in the same area.  We get off in lighter rain at 8:30AM and head for the ferry terminal.  It's a nice place but not very service oriented.  No place to store luggage.  We have opted to take the Amtrak to Olympia but its schedule doesn't mesh with our arrival.  So we must take a bus connection into Seattle.  It doesn't leave until 3PM. We are delighted that David and Jo Maas have arrived to pick us up for breakfast.  We had made arrangements in advance and they surprised us by meeting us at the port.  Jo was Pat's head nurse in Anchorage, David was a professor at UAA. They are now retired in Bellingham.  Luckily they could accommodate our large amount of luggage and they take us into the main shopping area of Bellingham.  It's a funky little diner and we have a great breakfast.  A nice visit with stories and news, catching up.  It ends too soon and they drive us back to the port where we will catch the Amtrak bus.  We have a couple hours to kill.  We board the special Amtrak bus at 3PM and head south for Seattle.  It's not very scenic even though the bus windows are huge for viewing.  It's raining off and on, very overcast.  The foliage is very lush and there are different varieties of trees and bushes.  The yellow gorse bushes are beautiful and everywhere.  We get into Union Station downtown Seattle.  Our route into the city gives us a view of the downtown close-up, the space needle is always a treat to see.  We get off the bus and get right onto the train.  Again hauling our luggage up into the train.  We have assigned seats.  Since we are getting off at Lacey they do not have service to store our bags.  It's awkward to stack them out of the way.  Our car is next to the diner car so there's lots of traffic.  Chuck has to sit with the bags and Pat sits in her assigned seat.  The seats are pretty comfortable.  But we have had just about enough of public transport and lots of people.  And we are tired.  The one high point was the route the train took ran through areas of Seattle and Tacoma of interest and then followed right along the edge of the shore with lovely views.  We arrive at Lacey at 7PM and Al and Betty Bloomberg are waiting for us.  They are a sight for sore eyes.  We stow luggage and ourselves into Al's double cab truck, thankfully, and make our way to their house.  It's not raining here and a little on the cool side.  Still overcast.  We are relieved to enter their lovely home and begin to unpack and unwind.  We have a light dinner and have a chat.  Then we must get to bed.  It's been an incredible day of travel, friends, and long hours.  On this trip we have been on train, car, SUV, gondola, bus, ferry, RV, and a plane on the way home.  We look forward to our stay with Al and Betty, longtime friends from Alaska, Scotland and BP.  We are sleeping in a bed that is comfortable, doesn't rock and roll, and the bathroom is just a few steps away and we don't have to hang on to the walls going there!  Ah sleep.  Night.  Ferry Travel Miles:  1629 miles

Day 36 Last day at sea

Dear Diary

After a somewhat mixed night of sleep, awakened by the sudden rolling of the ship as it enters Milbanke Sound from the confines of Tolmie Channel. So we start our last 24 hours on the ship. The weather is cool and overcast.  We pass through the sound quickly and enter quieter water; we pass a small coastal town called Bella Bella. As we pass through this part of the channel there is only about 25 yards of clearance on each side of the ship.  Pat spots a small pod of Orcas.  We have been seeing lots of logs and stumps floating in the water since Ketchikan.  Thinking this has a lot to do with logging in the area and that trees grow thick up to the rocky shore borders and they fall in.  And the big rushing rivers add to it.  The rolling hills and small mountains that border the inside passage are heavily forested, we are in rainforest with high rainfall and warmer weather.  We have been traveling the western edge of the coastal mountains on the water.  We drove up their eastern edge.  By the time we reach Bellingham we will have made a near circle.  We will have traveled 1,629 miles on the water.  Added to our 5000 RV mileage = 6,629 miles + 358 Hudson to Chicago + 408 Chicago to Minneapolis + 133 Mn to Forest city, Iowa + 200 miles to Seward, day trip + 148 bus miles Bellingham to Seattle = 7,876 miles.  This is not counting our mileage for 10 days in the Anchorage area.  We are starting to see high snow covered peaks again.  It is warmer here, the sky is bright overcast.  We noticed the water smelled different after Juneau.  One of the coast guard men told us there is a difference with tide changes.  So, not sure what it is that we sense.  It is hard to tell where the tide is in its cycle in these narrow waters.  We enjoy lunch on board, no stops at ports of call today.  After nice long showers with lots of hot water we take our perch on the back deck.  We spend the day with people we’ve met along the way and lots of conversation and storytelling.  We pass near open water which rocks the ship a bit and then back to protected waters.  We enter the Queen Charlotte Sound which is open water.  We see more rare white lighthouse buildings with pretty red roofs.    We enter Charlotte Strait which narrows to Johnstone Strait.  Very pretty tree covered mountains, some with snow.  We are surrounded by tall, steep peaks and beautiful high mountains in the east.  We enter Discovery Passage that follows Vancouver Island.  Pat sees a large pod of Dall porpoises, small, sleek, fast, black back, and white belly.  We are surrounded on all sides by high peaks, some with snow.  Mountains fold into mountains, closing the waterway behind us as we go.  Logging on the sheer mountain sides is obvious.  Canada reseeds their cut forest.  One of the Holland Cruise ships out of Ketchikan has been following us at a distance for some time.  We have a further narrowing at Herioto Bay where the ferry stops and pulls over to the side and begins to make a 360 degree turn.  This allows the cruise ship to pass us.  3 Canadian navy ships pass by, 4 people on water ski-dos, 2 logging barges, fishing boats are all in the area.  It’s quite a site to see these big ships maneuver.  We are seeing some strange tide changes with opposite tide movement and whirlpools. We pass on to Campbell River area.  It’s a large city with a hydro-electric dam near the site.  There are beautiful houses sitting across the Bay, many sitting on over hanging rocks and stilts.  The main city sits on the other side and appears quite large.  The coastal mountains are prominent behind the city and in the area.  The scenery in the last part of the day is especially beautiful.  Just as nice as anything we have seen.  We have a grilled salmon dinner in the bar with a beer.  We step outside one more time for the last of the day’s light.  We enter the Strait of Georgia and have open wide water.  The lights on the Holland America crusie ship are lit, looking like a floating city.  We overtake it.  There is talk we will get in early tomorrow but it won’t make any difference.  We have received information on final departure.  We will get a wake up call at 7AM and they want a speedy departure off the boat.  Pat is finishing the blog for the day.  We have been in Word for several days now.  As soon as we settle in Olympia we will enter them into the blog to catch up.  We are packing tonight so we can be ready in the morning.  It’s been a great trip, no rain, and no sunset tonight.  Everyday has been filled with adventure and we have met very interesting people along the way.  The ferry offers a very special type of travel.  Not without some hitches, but the rewards are worth it.  We will pass by Vancouver during the night and Bellingham first thing in the morning.  On to the last leg of the trip before home.  Night.

Info on Alaska Ferry of the Alaska Marine Highway System:  Our ship, MV Kennicott.  A ocean class roll on - roll off vessel.  Length:  382' Draft 17.5', Vehicle capacity:  cars only max. 120.  Can take large containers, RV's and trucks.  passengers: 748 for SE, 500 Gulf service.  Staterooms: Class A 51/198 berths; Class C 34/68 berths; Roomettes 24/48 berths.  max speed 19 knots, cruise speed, 16.8 knots; one passenger elevator, one vehicle elevator (80,000 pounds); helicopter platform. It has Active fins stabilization, not found on all ferries. Builder Halter Marine Incorporated, Moss Point Mississippi.  Delivery 1998.  Tony Knowles, Governor.  Cost $80 Million. Home port:  Valdez, Alaska. The staff we met were mostly Alaskans, which we were glad to find out.  Many from Southeast. 

Day 35 Third day at sea, the Tongass narrows and Ketchikan

Dear Diary

Chuck is up early while Pat gets some needed rest. While having coffee on the back deck, the boat goes through a small narrow (Snow Passage), and several whales surface near the ship. Chuck is able to take a short movie of the one, as the ship passes by.  We have breakfast in the cafeteria, omelet, pancake, fruit, toast and yogurt.  The food is good and reasonably priced.  The restroom has very nice showers with plenty of hot water, lots of commode stalls and double sinks.  It’s never very busy so very accessible.  We sit out on the rear deck and watch as we turn into Clarence Strait and becomes the Tongass Narrows.  Houses and buildings are becoming evident.  The waterway narrows significantly.  As we near Ketchikan the water is about 100 yards wide.  There are many float planes landing and taking off.  Some right beside our ferry as they land.  The Ketchikan International Airport is just across from us. A small ferry takes people across this narrow strip.  We see an Alaska Airlines jet land.  It’s a very narrow and small airstrip.  The planes must travel up a grade to the runway after they turn around at the end of the runway.  We pass the Ketchikan Shipyard.  There is a multiple berth dry dock.  We disembark from the ship as we have only 2 hours and quickly catch the town bus into downtown. The round trip fare for the bus is only $2 per person, downtown is 2 miles away.  The bus takes us through the neighborhoods of very modest homes and we have locals on the bus.  This town is built on the sides of very steep slopes so flat building land is at a premium.  The town now flows up and down tightly hugging the coast off the city center.  This is so different from 25 years ago when Creek St was still the main drag.  We arrive downtown to the amazement of 4 cruise ships in town, 2 Princess, 2 Holland American. Two of the ships are getting ready to leave so it is a of mass people movement back to the ships as each ship holds well over 2,000 passengers.  They dwarf the little town. Cruise ships alter everything about a place in terms of stores, types of stores etc.  We hear that as soon as the cruise ships are done for the season everything boards up.  So it does get quiet again.  The state ferries do not bring in the money as cruises so all of our docks are away from the town.  We quickly move away from the docks and head to Creek Street.  An historical grouping of original houses built on wooden stilts over a creek.  The brothel is still there with a madam out front beckoning tourist to enter.  It’s a very cool but small area.  Salmon and seals run this creek and can be viewed when they are in.  Ketchikan is noted for its totem poles so we stop and take pictures of the different ones, we start to walk towards the Totem center but the neighborhood starts to turn and we don’t have much time. We chance upon the Native Co-op store but can only admire the articles from the window as it is closed. In the window is a beautiful native dress made of caribou and beads.  The prices on the items are very reasonable.  So sorry it’s closed.  Brenna texts telling us that she has arrived in San Fran safely. She will be on west coast for 2 weeks for meetings and vacation.  Our other choice for sailing date would have been late June.  Besides having to stay for 2 more weeks we now know she would not have been in town.  So the timing for this trip back was perfect.  We head back into downtown and stop off at the Alaska Geographic visitors center and finally find a detailed map of the inside passage.  Taku ferry is in port, half our size.  And the new Susitna ice breaker/catamaran is in dock.  We hear there is some dispute over the Matsu borough commissioning it for valley commuters into Anchorage.  Anchorage port is not allowing it to dock so it sits here.  Overcast but warm. Lots of flowers bloomed and rhododendrons are in bloom in a variety of colors.  The ship heads out at 4:00 pm and we sit on the back deck and watch the ship traverse the Revilagigedo Channel. We are joined by some coast guard couples, and while talking to the one young couple, find out that the wife Erika is doing the same distant graduate degree at UAF with Susie who is engaged to our friends’ son Sherman. The weather is nice as we than enter the Chatham Sound and pass into Canadian waters.  We pass another rare and beautiful remote lighthouse on its island.  As we pass Prince Rupert and Port Edwards there is a beautiful sunset as we enter the narrowing Grenville Channel.  We have not seen the sun so it is impressive that as it dips below the horizon in the north that we see its sunset.  Hot pink/red low clouds and horizon rays and rays into the sky.  They reflect on the water and we can see the zig zag of our wake in pink.  We know our pictures won’t do it justice.  Also while passing through this area there is a large amount of trees and logs in the water which have come down the Skeena River.  Prince Rupert is the end of the Yellowhead Highway, Rt. 16 bordered by the mighty Skeena River.  We traveled this highway on our way up but went north out of Smithers.  It is the furthest north deep harbor ice free port for Canada.  It’s also the end of the Trans Canada RR.  There is a lot of activity with loading freighters.  PR is tucked in behind a small island, we only get a glimpse.  Port Edward is where all the loading activity is going on.  We have a small gather of new friends on the back deck.  Alaska Ferry does dock here.  There is a young German man who has motorbiked his way around all of Alaska, did not do Dalton.  But there is a biker on board who did do it.  Re coast guard:  it is serendipity that we are on the ferry at a time when the coast guard is changing out their ranks.  There are many CG families on board from all around Alaska being commissioned all over the US.  Kodiak is the largest CG base in the world.  The ferry allows for causal visiting with all ages and types of people.  Much less formal than a cruise.  The entertainments are limited and the ship is small.  So visiting and uninterrupted viewing near the water is the norm.  It is now dark and time for bed.  Nighty night.

Day 34 Second Day on Alaska Ferry

Dear Diary,

Pat had a difficult night with little sleep.  The ‘bed’ is the pits.  Waking up with achy knees and hips.  Pat got up at 4AM for a head visit and walks outside for a quick view.  We are traveling very fast with mountains and glaciers passing in part cloud to the east.  We rise at 8AM as we enter the Icy Straits.  The rolling stops and the water becomes calm.  The entrance to the Inside Passage is foggy but we see the mountains and heavily treed low rolling hills on each side.  The mist and rain is the usual here.  We are in rainforest area.  As we round Adolphus Point the captain tells us to look for whales.  There are small fishing boats and a long line of 10 whales are spouting and tails up.  We can’t see what they are but they are not Orca for sure.  We are not close enough to take any pictures.  Small islands and rock reefs, small fishing boats and tour boats are active in this area.  We are enclosed in mountains and narrowing water.  The rain stops and we have pretty clear view of the mountains.  We both get in quick showers and it helps make us feel better.  We go to our fave perch at the back of the boat and are in full sun.  The peaks are still partly hidden but the little islands and rock reefs and shores are very clear.  We see a couple more whales spouting and now know they are humpbacks.  We can see huge Herbert glacier winding its way down in the distance and then we get a view of Mendenhall Glacier in all its immensity.  Mendenhall lies just behind Auke Bay.  If we go north at this point up Lynn Canal we would be in Skagway.  The mountains are very high in this area with lots of snow and glaciers.  We dock at Auke Bay a little suburb outside Juneau with its own bay.  Very pretty with small islands dotting throughout.  We see an otter swimming by and eagles are everywhere.  We have been to Juneau in the past and we only have 3 hours, it’s 12 miles away.  So rather than take a taxi and worry about the time we decide to stretch our legs with a walk further into Auke Bay.  There are all kinds of wildflowers along the road and we find pink lupine which we have never seen before.  It’s a busy road going in the 1.5 miles but a bike lane helps.  We are in full sun and the temp. reads 64 degrees but it feels much warmer in the sun.  There are some very beautiful unique homes bordering the Bay here.  Also the University of Alaska has a branch here.  We walk to the small marina.  Lots of crab pots.  We find a charming little ‘shack’ fish restaurant called Hot Tots that is painted, clean and beautiful flowers.  We decide to sit outside at a picnic table.  Chuck gets the captain’s platter with fried shrimp and cod.  Pat gets a small garden salad and cod tacos.  Everything is excellent, even the garden salad quality was so good it didn’t need dressing.  A nice surprise for little out of the way place.  We walked around the tiny harbor and can see scallop shells which are probably what the otter was eating.  We also see a large school of herring and a fellow was catching them for bait.  He told us he was going King salmon fishing tomorrow in a local bay.   The day is still nice and the peaks are open.  We walk back to the ferry.  Right after we docked the Malaspina also docked.  It’s a smaller ferry than ours which is 399 passenger potential. The Le Conte (ferry) has also docked; it is the smallest of the 3 docked.  As we return the Malaspina is departing and it has to back out of the bay.  Interesting to watch.  The largest ferry is the Columbia.  We watch our ferry being fueled.  It is a bit unnerving to think of that fuel so close to all these people.  They are loading a lot of cars on for this trip.  It is disappointing that the only way into Juneau from the ferry is to take a cab.  No bus route or shuttle for ferry passengers.  We didn’t price the 24 mile round trip but we are told it’s expensive, later we found out it was $35 each way.  Seems not very accommodating for a state capital not to make it as easy as possible for tourists. Back on the boat we are fortunate to get 2 of our favorite chairs on the back on the boat. Here we sit and admire the view for the next 3 ½ hours, talking to a gentleman who just retired from the Golden Valley Energy Coop in Fairbanks and is just starting a long summer vacation trip with his son Chuck talks to several of the Coast Guard people and finds out one of the couples is from Upstate New York, and on their way to Washington, DC via the Finger Lakes. We are going out and around using the Chatham Strait route not Stephans Passage directly out of Juneau.  We pass the tiny village of Angoon in twilight.  It is very remote and isolated, only a few houses are visible.  Juneau sits up the Gastineau Channel and only cruise ships dock there.  We retire to the back enclosed viewing lounge as our favorite outside chairs are occupied, as we wait to see if the boat will head to the Wrangle narrows via Frederick Sound. About 11:00pm we see that the captain is going to sail around Cape Decision and skip the Narrows.  Too bad.  We head to our room for some needed rest. Good night.

Day 33 First day on the Alaska Ferry

Dear Diary,

We have had a fitful night.  The beds are some of the worst we have slept on.  Note to self, never do this again.  Interesting that getting up in the middle of the night for the head is not only an adventure of finding it in half sleep, there is the rolling of the boat that makes the trip even more of an adventure.  This roomette arrangement is for those who are on board one or two nights at most and about 30 years younger.  Even the people who have pitched their tents are more comfortable than us.  We rent a linen pack that includes sheets, pillow, blanket, towel, washcloth and soap for $3.00.  A pillow and extra blanket a $1.00 apiece. There are no lounge chairs on this ferry, so difficult for 40 winks during the day.  This ferry has many amenities but it is not very refined.  We are constantly aware that we are on a working ship.  The dog owners get 2 times during the day to visit their pets on the car deck.  We awake to rain; the gulf has a huge storm system moving through.  We felt the ferry leave the Canal Passage out of Whittier as soon as it began to roll.  Pretty calm seas even with the storms.  We pass an empty oil tanker so we know we have passed Valdez.  Throughout the day we only see land once as we passed St. Elias Cape.  A beautiful promontory of a single rock column standing separate of the larger white faced headland behind it.  There is a lighthouse located here.  We are away from shore and with the heavy clouds we can’t see more.  We pass a large cruise ship, only 1 of 3 vessels we see the whole time, and wonder what they are doing and if they see us.  Ships passing.  Another time to appreciate the immensity of proportion.  The Alaska Gulf is a huge body of water.  We see porpoises and dolphins and sea birds.  Someone said they saw a whale, be we did not.  At least the water is flat enough to see things.  The rain comes hard and then stops, we move in and out of individual storms.  At one point we have sun for an extended period of time.  We have found a new favorite place to sit when it’s not raining.  It’s a narrow high deck across the back of the ferry with lawn chairs.  Blocks the wind and gives a panorama view without windows like the front.  The sky this day is never boring.  Every cloud formation you can imagine and every color; yellow, gray, black, mauve, purple, cobalt and aquamarine, white.  We buy sandwiches for our dinner at the cafeteria and eat some of the food we have bought.  The food is reasonable, generous and well priced.  Pat has found some good bargains and some unusual items in the gift shop.  We have met a Dutch woman traveling alone and talked about the state of our countries.  It’s interesting to talk with the gift shop lady and hear about her 20 year career with the ferry system and the various jobs.  She is from Puerto Rico and all her family is on the eastern US coast.  They want her to come back but she says she will stay on the west coast probably Alaska.  As we near Yakutat mid evening we see a striking slash of rainbow on black clouds in the distance.  Pat starts to spot Hubbard Glacier winding down out of Mt Blackburn.  (the same mountain we saw on our way to Valdez)  We only get peeks of the mountains in the area.  We don’t get near it but we are able to see it pretty clearly.  The longest tidal glacier in the world.  Glaciers in this area are advancing not receding.  As we look at the mountains it is easy to see why.  This area gets rainfall and snow in similar amounts to Valdez, but the mountain elevations are higher.  Yakutat offers the only safe deep water harbor on the whole Alaska Gulf.  It is located on the edge of the St. Elias range and is a narrow sliver of the US on the Canadian border.  Getting in there requires that we navigate very carefully.  A worker is standing over the bow of the boat watching the water.  It is narrow and we can see how shallow the water is in places.  These are boggy heavily treed lowlands surrounded by some of the highest mountains in the world.  In fact, we are on the gulf side of the St. Elias range, the highest tidal mountains in the world.  We have clear weather going into this tiny harbor.  As we dock at the very small loading area many people come to the dock.  We can see people standing on the side of the hill watching.  This seems to be a kind of event, the ferry coming in.  There is no way in or out except for water and air.  Small houses dot the sides of the low hills.  This is a high percentage native population, two elderly grandmas are coming home and the family comes to greet them.  There is a cannery nearby and the dock is stacked with shipping containers.  Teenagers come down to hang out and see what’s happening.  Cars are lined up to get on the ferry, including the Mobile Mammogram Unit.  It’s a kind of organized happy chaos.  It’s a miracle that everyone stays safe in this busy confined space.  The walk is lowered and the dog owners are allowed to take their dogs for a walk while we are docked.  It’s a pooch parade of every size, shape and kind, about 30.  We can see their excitement to be on land for a time.  The tide is out and the harbor water is quiet and eagles are very active here.  A few vehicles unload; someone got a new car, one loaded with Costco items including a big screen TV, a moving van.  They are having a little trouble with the vehicle loading mechanism and it’s holding us up.  Eventually, we are on our way.  We go to our fave perch and watch the harbor recede.  It’s interesting how different it looks at a distance and how perception changes with entering and exiting.  We have been there and seen the people and their homes, it changes the perspective.  We talk to a woman whose husband is with the Coast Guard.  There are a few families from the Kodiak base who are transferring with their families to Juneau.  Makes for a lively group of young children.   As we look back on the harbor we see the moon rising in a small break in the black clouds.  We see a perfect yellow/pink full moon rise fully in that little opening and then it’s gone.  Pictures will not do it justice.  We look at the receding views of the St Elias Mountains; these are mighty mountains, home of high peak weather-makers and growing glaciers.  Remote, forbidding and powerful with a 2cm rise every year and record number of big earthquakes.  Alaska has beautiful mountains and each range is different.  St. Elias range, with mounts St Elias, Blackburn and Logan, are in the same world class as Denali, but because of their remoteness, more impressive in our minds.  It’s time to try for sleep which will not be easy with our crummy beds.  Night.

Day 32 Our last day with Brenna, boarding the ferry

Dear Diary,

We awake to clear but overcast skies.  It’s in the 50’s.  We begin the process of once more packing up and moving on.  We do laundry in the house stacked washer/dryer and Pat takes one last hot tub session.  The views are beautiful in the tub area and it is very quiet.  We eat a last lunch of Pat’s halibut chowder and leftover hamburgers.  Bidding farewell to this lovely house and a fun weekend with Brenna.  Brenna is staying with us for the day and we take advantage of our late ferry departure by exploring Girdwood.  We have been here many times but we decide to find some new things.  Brenna takes us back to the foot of the mountains in an area called Virgin Creek.  It is a short climb but lots of roots in the path.  What an incredible forest.  You’d swear you were not in Alaska.  Rainforest with tall trees and thick moss on everything.  It is very still except for the sound of a waterfall.  It’s very eerie.   Makes you want to sit down and just look.  After a very short but tangly uphill walk we come to an incredible falls, a chute of water crashing down a steep slope.  Thick moss covers the rock on both sides.  Hard to describe how pretty it is, can’t take enough pictures, words don’t describe.  But we see fresh bear tracks and there is some dead animal nearby so as much as we’d like to linger, we don’t.  We drive back to Crow Creek Mine.  The road has always been bad going back there.  We negotiate our way back on fair condition dirt and gravel.  Brenna has a Highlander and it handles it well.  There is supposed to be a few RV spots for camping back here but don’t know how they get past each other on this very narrow road.  Crow Creek Mine is a family owned historical site.  It is a darling little oasis of mowed yard, tiny spring fed streams and pond.  The original 1898 buildings are still intact with most of their original tools and documentation from when it was a mine.  Someone has planted flower beds and hanging baskets.  Many of the large outdoors old machinery have flowers planted in them too.  It is a lovely setting with high mountain views in the distance.  Lots of people get married here.  We are across the mountain from Eagle River valley.  The same valley we hiked and the same that we camped our last nights.   This is the opposite side for a beginning of the Crow Creek Pass Trail, an old gold mining trail and a continuation of the historic Iditarod Trail.  We look through the old buildings and walk down to the creek.  For a fee you can pan and sluice for gold.  People are trying their luck.  Mostly a few flakes.  The owners still mine to a small degree and they make gold nuggets in glass bezel necklaces.  Looking at the price of the piece, it seems you’d be getting a good portion of nuggets for the price.  We are talking about nuggets much smaller than peas, but not flakes.  We stop off at the Winner’s Creek trailhead.  A lovely valley hike that requires use of a hand tram to cross the river.  Bren says it’s much like Virgin Creek falls in views but the trail is much better.  It also follows the Iditarod trail.  We are not geared for this today but would make the trip another visit.   We bid farewell to beautiful Girdwood Valley and head out to the

Seward Highway

.  We drive south to the Alaska Wildlife Animal Conservancy.  This is a relatively new place situated on land that had dropped during the 1964 earthquake.  Basically mudflats with gravel and grass.   The old buildings of the former Portage town are run down and derelict.  Very cool to see them still around.  And the trees are dead white sculptures.  It’s a new opportunity for a different view of Turnagain Arm and the various valleys that run off of it.  There is no wind break at all so while it’s not a cold day the wind makes us bundle up.  $10.00 per person up to $30.00 for a car full, unlimited viewing time on the 200 acres. Some of the best money we have spent.  We are delighted with the animal viewings.  These are rescue animals.  When the need arises these types of animals either go to the Anchorage Zoo, here or outside zoos.  We stop off at the Roosevelt Elk.  These majestic and incredibly beautiful animals are in plain view.  The males’ racks are already huge with intact velvet, more growth?  They are so striking we can hardly stop looking at them.  Elk were once indigenous to Alaska in southeast.  This small herd was brought here from Washington.  We decide to drive and stop rather than walk the large compound.  The next stop is a small herd of musk ox.  They are very near us and we can see all their details, especially the highly prized quivut.  Their thick horns that make curlicues and short squat bodies make them endearing, especially the 2 calves we see keeping up with the adults.  Next we stop at the brown bear exhibit.  Brown bear or grizzly, same animal different geo locale.  We see a large brown bear right by the fence, she is pacing.  Very impressive, then out of the dense bush comes a male 3 times her size.  We are all startled and he’s right by the fence.  A worker is there and gives the bears commands.  The male rises up on his hind legs with his front legs in the air.  OMG!  Seeing this makes us feel pretty stupid for wandering about in the woods with fresh bear sign.  He is about 7 feet tall stretched out.  He and the female are sibs orphaned up by Willow.  The female sits on her rump and puts her front paws together in a clapping motion made by the worker.  These movements are taught so the workers can make a physical exam of their underbellies.  If they get in fights they can be injured in this area and it wouldn’t be seen.  These bears have an 18 acre enclosure and will never be returned to the wild.  They say they get take one more bear in the compound.  Can’t imagine how they co-exist in that space.  A coyote let himself into the compound at some point and has made it his home.  We see him curled up under a tree, the bears ignore him.   In the background we see a third bear, an 11 year old female that is also very large but she keeps her distance from these two.  We have never been this close.  The Zoo doesn’t allow it and thankfully we have never had an encounter this close.  We are once again awed by their power and size and are reminded of taking great precautions on the trails.  According to the worker, brown bears can sense humans from 7 miles away and they will quietly stalk them for miles.  Not as much as food source but as curiosity.   Worker says, humans never know when and where they have been stalked.  These huge bears are quiet and can disappear into brush in a heartbeat.  We tear ourselves away and move on to the Woodland Bison.  The only remaining herd in the world if we read it correctly.  They are very similar to the buffalo in Yellowstone but less thick and shaggy heads.  The body build is still similar, the horns are more slender and pointy.  There are several calves.  We are allowed to be very close to them outside the fence.  Another similarity to the buffalo is irritability.  They don’t like us near the calves and there is a lot of grunting and swinging heads and false charges.  Like Yellowstone buffaloes, they poop everywhere and eat any grass to the nub.  We can tell they must be moved frequently to new pasture.  There are other bison here too and they are very similar.  We move on to the moose grounds.  Two ‘teenage’ male moose are very near the fence with new antlers sprouting.  There is a caribou compound and the large male in the back has an incredible black velvet rack.  It’s huge and still growing, the velvet is still much intact.  There is a calf and it’s very cute.  There is a baby moose in a lean to.  It was just recently orphaned; they are feeding it with a bottle.  It’s a little milk chocolate bundle of fuzz on 4 spindly legs.  We come upon the Kodiak bear cubs.  These babies are already 300-400 pounds.  They can get up to 1500 pounds.  Not sibs.  The female is a ginger brown with a tan ring around her neck.  The male is very pretty solid brown.  They are asleep in the little log cabin and funny to watch them wake and stretch and start to walk around.  The male has the jaw bone of a moose and he is playing in the water with it.  He is such a clown he has us in stitches and so close we could reach out and touch him.  A bear trainer comes in with a bucket of dry bear food pellets.  He sits down on it.  The female who is the more aggressive of the two walks up to him.  Upon his command she sits and claps he gives her a handful.  The male stays away for a while and then suddenly jumps out of the water and climbs some fallen trees to see what they are doing.  Besides their size etc. we are amazed and alarmed at their quickness for their large size.  And they are problem solvers and relentless in pursuit.  Now the two bears are sitting in front of the trainer and he has to keep them under control with commands etc.  Each bear has begun to tap him on the knee and arm with their paws.  They know he’s sitting on the bucket of food.  We decide this is getting too hairy for us.  He seems to be in command, but if these bears decide they’ve had enough of his play and want the food, we are sure the trainer loses.  We stop off to see the rescued black bear; he has a large patch shaved on his rump.  Looks like he’s had surgery but he’s moving around well.  He’s very pretty pure black.  They are so distinctive in their shape from brown bears, especially the head.  People say they’d rather run into a brown bear than a black bear.  After today, we are convinced we’d rather not meet either, especially the griz.  We finish by viewing the eagle and two great horned owls.  The owls are incredible; it’s hard to stop looking at them.  Quite large and very pretty in their owly way.  We stop in the gift shop/café.  Very nicely done log cabin with the usual gifts but a few surprises.  It’s time to go.  This has been a wonderful outing.  We would recommend visiting this spot and would do it again.  We head into the Portage Valley in order to enter the tunnel for Whittier.  The one way from Bear Valley to Whittier is on the hour.  We line up behind other cars waiting to go through.  There are beautiful glacier views in this small Bear Valley and we can view the Portage Glacier face from this angle.  While we wait a small train, commissioned by the cruise ships, passes through the tunnels ahead of us.  Then the light turns green and we enter the Anderson Tunnel.  We have to keep 25 feet between each vehicle as we travel through at 25 mph.  It is fairly well lighted, some diesel fumes still from train but there is circulation.  We travel on top of the railroad tracks which require that we straddle them.  This is a 2.5 mile trip of engineering marvel, but Pat doesn’t like going through.  The thought of a whole huge mountain overhead in earthquake country.  Not a happy thought.  We arrive Whittier.  It’s warm and overcast.  This tiny harbor and the Passage Canal make everything look close and dramatic.  Sheer mountains with glaciers and waterfalls, we are on the edge of the Sergeant Icefield.  There are tiny shops and the old Anchor Inn.  The whole town lives in a high rise apt. building.  It’s also the home of the town hall, school, post office etc.  The land is so narrow and tight, no room to build. Lots of charters and fishing and shrimping, glacier tours go out of here.  It is an ice free port.  Since the opening of the tunnel to driving it has made the harbor slips very desirable.  We stop for dinner at the relatively new Harbor Inn.  Constructed to look like an east coast building, it’s very quaint.  The business has been taken over by the Hooper Bay Native Consortium.  There has been a lot of care and attention to detail, it’s small but very nice.  We sit in the bar with a window overlooking the whole Canal.  It’s a pleasant dinner and our last few hours with Brenna.  We take a walk around town and she drops us at the ferry terminal.  It’s about 9PM, Brenna has a drive back to town and it’s getting late.  It’s hard to say good-bye because we have had such a good visit with her.  We have too much gear and we struggle with getting it on board.  We board on the car deck which still has large containers that we have to negotiate dragging gear.  Def not glam.  Thank God there is an elevator.  We finally get to our room, a lot of hurry-up and wait.  It’s a roomette.  Kind of laughable.  Basically a closet, at 7 feet by 5 feet. The table and benches fold down to a single bed and there is a bunk bed that drops from the wall over it.  We have a port hole that has no view but it keeps the room from being totally claustrophobic.  It is very stuffy, not sure Pat can stay here.  We adjust the thermostat and air is circulating.  With all our gear we can barely turn around.  What have we done?  There is a full bathroom facility near down the hall so that makes it somewhat handy.  We basically will use the room for sleep and storage, spending most of our time on deck.  There are nice lounges, cafeteria and solariums for viewing and a movie theater.  Sit out watching semi-darkness descend on Whittier.  Have never seen it at night, it’s very pretty, this tiny fishing village.  It’s past midnight and we’ve had a very busy day.  Can’t hold off to watch the departure so prepare for bed.  It’s a juggling act to get there.  Pat is on the fold down seats.  Not very comfortable, will have to make adjustments tomorrow.  Chuck near the ceiling in his nest.  Has to use a ladder to get up and down.  We’re still in dock, but sleep is begging.  Night.

Day 31 A Day in Girdwood and Double Musky

Day 31

Dear Diary,

We awake to full sun and blue skies.  It’s a gift and we know it.  Brenna and Zach head out on the Arm bike trail to Indian.  It’s warm and the sun is hot.  We drive to the gondola at the big resort down the road about 2 miles.  We walk through small patches of forest on our way there.  It’s easy to see the temperate rainforest climate and why there is high snowfall for skiing.  Very beautiful mosses and ferns etc, the trees are huge.  The gondola ride up the mountain is fantastic views.  At the top there’s a cold wind but the sun is very warm; we get a panorama of the valley and out into Turnagain Arm.  The hanging glaciers are very visible and we can see Crow Creek Pass in the valley opposite, knowing Eagle River Valley is just on the other side.  The valley is green and already green up most of the mountain sides.  We are in snow up here, above tree line about 4000 feet.  We can see avalanche slides above us in a glacial bowl.  An info film shows pictures of the howitzer canon/guns used to loosen the avalanches.  That area is only open when the snowfall exceeds a certain depth.  We look down at the vertical drop of the black diamond ungroomed ski trail, rated in world’s highest for degree of skill and difficulty.  Turnagain Arm fjord and its surrounding mountains are very clear.  The tide is out right now, making it empty except for small pools and river and stream flows, it makes interesting patterns in the mud flats left behind.  We can see the town below and the grounds of the beautiful new lodge.  We are high enough that planes and helicopters are flying very low below us.  On top there is a café with full menu indoor and outdoor seating.  A small gift shop and museum.  We must take at least 100 pictures.  It’s hard to stop clicking.  Chuck is able to take a panorama movie while there.  The clouds are gathering and we have had the best of the views in sun.  On our ride down we pass over a black bear and two cubs.  Back at the house we make a big brunch.  Bren and Zach have ridden 30 miles and met a large male black bear on the path.  Everyone, including the bear was surprised, luckily he ran away.  We take a walk up to the old lodge area.  We stop at the Kobuk Jade Co.  Whether we buy or not it’s now a tradition.  They have an excellent display of Alaskana and the largest most beautiful baleen basket we’ve ever seen.  A rare sight and worth the trip alone.  We stroll around the grounds and end up at the old lodge.  It looks so small.  They have managed to keep some retail in it and a large bar/deck upstairs.  The infamous bake shop is there and we find a local artist cooperative.  The art/craft is very diverse and high quality.  We find stained glass panels that are 3 dimensional.  We have admired these pieces in Anchorage shop.  Today the artist who made them and who is part of this coop is working.  She is originally from Mass. but now resides 20 years in Hope across the Arm.  We find a Forget-Me-Not panel and can’t leave without it.  There is a Denali in flowers panel that is exquisite but too dear for us.  Not only does the artist personally package for us but she is handling all shipping herself.  It’s great to meet her, she gives some background to her pieces and how they are made.  While in the shop, the lady, June, who Pat saw at the concert last night and knew through Terry Powell comes into the shop with her husband.  Not letting the moment go again Pat makes the connection and it is June!  What a nice coincidence.  We talk for a few minutes and catch up.  Must tell Terry we saw her.  The flowers at the old lodge are beautiful, huge beds of ferns, multiple hanging baskets of every color and boxes of double ruffle begonia.  Lots of pictures there.  Walk back to the house and take a break.  Decide to go to dinner at the Double Musky.  Another tradition.  We walk the mile or so there.  Slow night and we get a table in the solarium which is rare for us.  Nice dinner and we recognize the waiter from times past.  Walk back to the house but try a different route.  Cross over a small hidden foot bridge over Crow Creek, very pretty.  Chuck says there are wet bear prints on the bridge, we make lots of noise.  Back at the house we play a couple games of euchre.  It’s good Zach now knows this family game so he is roped into it with no excuses.  It’s midnight, it’s still light, big day of adventure and fun.  We love this special time with Brenna.  It will end too soon.  Tomorrow night we’ll be on the cross gulf ferry heading south.  Time for sleep.  Night.

Day 30 Exploring Portage Valley and Fiddlehead Concert

Day 30

Dear Diary,

Awake to over cast and cool.  We eat breakfast and head out for Portage Valley just 15 or so miles from here.  We are in rain, with wind and cold.  We drive back to the visitor’s center and there are a few large icebergs in the lake. This is another beautiful valley with glaciers, occupied by the national park.  Each valley along the Arm offers its own shape, micro-climate, mountains and glacier views.  The valley greening has extended up the sides of the mountains.  We have not seen calving at Portage Glacier/Lake for some time.  It’s free day at the center and we are invited to visit all the exhibits and the movie.  This center has very well done exhibits and movie and at the end of the movie the screen lifts and there is a full view of the lake and a glacier in the distance.  Portage Glacier is receded and out of view at this time but the calving is still happening.  We were able to see the face from land while we lived here and then it had a period of quick retreat, 20 years in one summer.  The mountains are distinctive in shape and are recognizable in brochures etc.  We see the tunnel for vehicles leading to the big tunnel that goes through the mountain to Whittier.  The mountains that ring this cul de sac valley are steep with waterfalls everywhere.  We take the trail back to Byron Glacier.  It’s an easy well maintained trail and there is fresh bear sign.  There are so many people on the trail that it becomes clear we don’t have to worry much about animals.  We follow the glacial creek back to the toe of the glacier.  It still fills the valley higher up.  People are walking onto the glacier and sliding, snowboarding down.  The creek flows under the deep snow in a couple places.  It’s very overcast with a few rain spits.  We decide to drive over to the Ptarmigan ferry dock, the boat tour that takes visitors around the lake and to the face of the glacier.  It’s a nice center with a small gift shop and café.  Can get a different angle on the valley and lake from back here.  Good view of the south facing ridge wall with long strand of high waterfalls. We don’t take the boat tour; we’ll save it for another day.  We stop off at the various campgrounds on our drive out of the valley.  Williwaw is very nice, flat and all paved, with good pull through areas.  Perfect for RV’s.  The other campground is more primitive and can only hold tents.  That’s an irony because a salmon spawning stream runs right by it.  There is the paved, flat Trail of Blue Ice that runs the length of the valley.  It would make a very nice walk and bike ride.  There are many people on bikes in the campgrounds.  The path takes them to the lodge and the Visitor Center too.   The sun has come out and it is warming.  Weather changes in Alaska happen very quickly and we have not been disappointed. There are two large hanging glaciers along the road.  Middle is very beautiful but the Explorer Glacier is particularly nice with its large glacial lake in the forefront. We see two loons on the lake.  By now we are in sun in the Arm which bodes well for the Girdwood Valley.  We start dinner of steaks on the grill and Zach arrives.  After dinner we walk up to the day lodge lawn for the Fiddlehead Concert.  We sit outdoors in the sun surrounded by the Valley Mountains and listen to bluegrass music.  Lots of people are here and it’s fun to watch kids playing.  The music is enjoyable and the setting is incredible with the setting sun casting light in different angles and shades.  Pat sees June, an acquaintance from long ago but doesn’t approach because not totally sure.  And Pat and Brenna recognize Brenna’s first grade teacher Alison Vail, but don’t approach because not completely sure.  Near the end of the evening the temperature drops suddenly and the cold is penetrating.  We walk back to the house in full light about 11PM.  By now the sun has dipped behind the mountains and the ¾ moon is rising off the edge of a mountain in the opposite direction, a striking view.  It’s late, time for a short visit and then time for bed.  There is so much quiet.  Night.   

Day 29 Leaving Anchorage for Girdwood

Dear Diary,
Slept in.  Spent the morning packing and tidying up the apt.  Brenna has ridden her bike to work so we're making a grocery run for our days in Girdwood.  Brenn's apt is very nice.  Two good size bedrooms with a large bath.  Nice kitchen with all the amenities plus a pantry.  An L shaped living room/dining room combo with a small deck off the side.  Enough for a grill and a small 2 people eating.  The deck windows look directly east toward the Chugach Mountains, north toward the cityscape and central park strip and west, well there is no view, just ventilation, this is probably good for noise control since she is living in the downtown proper.

We leave for Girdwood with Brenna, loaded with groceries for the weekend.  It is partly sunny and fairly warm.  Turnagain Arm is beautiful and we see some eagles, it appears the hooligan runs have begun.  We turn into Girdwood off the highway, about 40 miles from Anchorage.  The rental office, a little log cabin, is located near the old Alyeska Lodge and most importantly the Bake Shop.  Our rented house is about two blocks away, it’s called Marshall’s Cabin.  It a whole house buried in some trees.  A ski chalet A frame type made of all wood with a cedar shake roof with a hot tub on the deck.  The deck wraps around the whole house on 3 sides, with large ski benches. We can hear the creek running nearby.  The first floor is all tongue and groove pine on the high peaked ceiling.  Large prow windows on 3 sides with beautiful views of the mountain valley.  Girdwood is the large downhill ski resort for state.  The valley is bowl shaped, ring of mountains with seven hanging glaciers.  It is semi rainforest with large pines, aspen and birch, lush up the valley sides.  The house has a full kitchen with a large sit down breakfast bar/stools with dining table for 6.  The same area is the living room with brick fireplace and huge wrap around couch.  There is a stackable wash/dryer in a closet and off the kitchen is a bedroom, full bath, a private owner room and a back room to the outdoor grill deck.  There is a large closet inside the front door with all sizes of flip flops and robes for the hot tub.  There is a steep stairway up to the second floor with a small loft and a large bedroom.  The master BR has built in drawers into the wall.  A large clothes closet, a full futon and a brass queen size bed.  There is a huge window seat with windows looking out the west side of the valley.  The bathroom is roomy with a huge shower.  The quality of the mattress is the only drawback.  Lots of nice artwork throughout the house and a pair of decorated moose antlers hang over the front door.  We make dinner of hamburgers and salad.  Take advantage of the hot tub, fun for a while and then too hot.  So, tired time for sleep.  Climb into the crow’s nest for some z’s.  The silence is so noticeable after all the city noise at Brenna’s apt.  Night.